Black Hair & Lice?? Yes, It's Possible.
Here's How to Recognize Them & How to Respond
original release Nov 2017-
My client had virgin hair. It was completely chemical free. They don't oil their scalp often, if at all between appointments. Their hair was styled in box braids, and was washed regularly throughout the duration of the style. In fact, it had been washed 2 days before this appointment. The plan was to remove the braids, wash and condition the hair and install a new protective style without extensions. About one quarter of the way through the removal, I had to STOP services. There were small bugs crawling out near the bases of the braids.
But Black people don't get LICE...
Yes, we do. Well,... we can. And y'all, the hassle and shock of finding this lesser known truth out in REAL time just are NOT worth it. We should learn how to PREVENT them, how to RECOGNIZE them, and how to GET RID of them.
There has long been a consensus in the Black community that it is impossible for us to contract headlice, or that if lice get in our hair that they cannot survive. I recently found out first hand that this is a misconception. It isn't true. And after the experience I had, research was necessary. This is what I found out.
Most of us think our hair is too dense, or too kinky for lice to hang on to, and while that is pretty close to the truth because the oval/elliptical shape of our hair strands, it only makes it a little difficult for lice to get a steady grip. This does not mean they won't set up shop and make plans to stay. We have to protect ourselves through prevention.
Prevention is simple. Lice thrive in a clean, warm and dry environment. The key word here is "dry." Since these tiny creatures breathe through their skin, oils will suffocate them. Lice cannot thrive in an environment where oils are present. Yes, that well known childhood practice of sitting down to have your scalp "greased" was our saving grace. Back in the day, we used Blue Magic and similar petroleum based products, but we are learning now to avoid petrol products because with prolonged use, they can block the pores, causing scalp irritation and dandruff.
There are natural options that will work just as well to prevent lice, with the added benefit of providing nutrients to the scalp. Jojoba and Macadamia Nut oils are excellent for the scalp and are very similar in make-up to our natural sebum. Grapeseed oil is high in vitamin E, economical and very lightweight. Unless your scalp is very dry, it only needs to be lightly oiled once per week. If you are developing dandruff or experiencing chronic dry scalp and hair, it is recommended to set up a consultation with your local Natural Hair Specialist and create a personalized regimen to restore your moisture balance. Dryness can have many causes both internal and external.
Do not wash the hair too often. It takes about 72 hours for the scalp to adjust after a shampoo cleansing and begin to produce natural sebum again. In general, the tighter the coils, the longer it will take the scalp to produce enough oils to cause any form of build up. Under normal circumstances, once per week is often enough to wash the hair.
Treatment of lice in Black hair can be a difficult and tedious task, so in this case, an ounce of prevention truly is worth a pound of cure. Check your child's scalp regularly to avoid any issues, an infestation can take hold quickly in the right environment.
Lice are most commonly found on children from preschool age to around 12 years of age. Without extreme caution however, they will easily spread to other members of the household. There is also a new breed that has appeared in several states across the nation that is known as Super Lice. This breed earned its name from its evolved resistance to current market lice treatments, also known as pediculicides, pesticides and insecticides. Super Lice cannot survive natural treatments, so a combination of the various methods may be appropriate to ensure that treatment doesn't become a prolonged repeating process.
Lice are tiny light to dark brown bugs, and their eggs can be mistaken for fine dandruff or follicle bulbs. The eggs are attached near the root of the hair, but are not easily removed. Should you find lice in your child's hair, notify your child's school through the teacher or principal. They will inform you of the school district's attendance policy, since lice spread easily, and also notify other parents in a discreet manner.
Over the counter and prescription lice treatments are designed to be done on straight hair and must utilize the specialized lice and nit (egg) comb to be effective.
The natural option is to use a combination of heavy grease (yes, this is where you break out the Blue Magic) and heat. 125°F is necessary to kill lice on contact. An electric pressing comb with a max temperature of about 325°F will definitely do the trick without damaging the hair. Part the hair into small sections and grease the hair, taking care NOT to get oil on the scalp. Once done with the entire head, part into 0.5-1 inch sections and press the hair from root to tip. A flat iron can be used near the root to avoid getting too close to the scalp if necessary, but be careful not to pull the hair too tight. Tension + Heat = Damage.
This is a situation where petroleum hair grease is a must have. I must admit, I never thought I would put those words together in a sentence, but in this case, it fits the job description. It's heavy and blocks all moisture. It protects the hair from heat. It's cheap. The process should be done at least twice to ensure that all live bugs and eggs (nits) are killed and removed.
Save the conditioner. Creamy conditioners are not enough because they are water-based, and cannot be left on the hair for a long enough period of time to prevent or get fully rid of lice. They also tend to be more expensive, so to use up all of your best product and not kill every single louse is money down the drain.
While the hair is semi straight, apply the lice treatment, if you are using one. Follow the directions exactly. All bedding and clothing should be laundered on the hottest setting. Vacuum all carpets, chairs and couches. Items that are not washable should be sealed in airtight plastic bags for 1-2 weeks. This gives any eggs time to hatch and suffocate.
Do NOT make an appointment to be seen in a salon, braiding, beauty or barber shop with an active lice infestation. The same goes for other personal services where your hair may come in contact with shared spaces. Servicing clients with lice, ringworm, and other communicable conditions will result in hefty fines and possible loss of professional licenses. After my encounter, I did not service any clients over the next 48 hours and completely cleaned and disinfected my entire workspace 3 times. I disinfected a 4th time before servicing my next client almost 3 days later because overkill is necessary. I threw out all of the tools and towels I used that day. This cost me money and time, but had I not known how to recognize what I was dealing with and know my legal limitations, it could have cost me much more.
But Black people don't get lice...
I believed it. But then I witnessed with my own eyes. We have to protect ourselves through prevention and know how to handle this situation if necessary. With wisdom from the past, we can handle the present and ensure a prosperous future.
©Nov 2017. Reproduction & distribution prohibited without express permission from the author.
Kalae Whitman
Sankofa Natural Hair
Specializing in *Braids*Twists*Locs*Shea Butter
Humbly serving the Tyler/East Texas area
(903) 830-0963 TEXT for appointments & inquiries
www.SankofaHair.com
YT/IG/Twitter: @Sankofa Kalae
"The Truth is in Your Roots..."
Here's How to Recognize Them & How to Respond
original release Nov 2017-
My client had virgin hair. It was completely chemical free. They don't oil their scalp often, if at all between appointments. Their hair was styled in box braids, and was washed regularly throughout the duration of the style. In fact, it had been washed 2 days before this appointment. The plan was to remove the braids, wash and condition the hair and install a new protective style without extensions. About one quarter of the way through the removal, I had to STOP services. There were small bugs crawling out near the bases of the braids.
But Black people don't get LICE...
Yes, we do. Well,... we can. And y'all, the hassle and shock of finding this lesser known truth out in REAL time just are NOT worth it. We should learn how to PREVENT them, how to RECOGNIZE them, and how to GET RID of them.
There has long been a consensus in the Black community that it is impossible for us to contract headlice, or that if lice get in our hair that they cannot survive. I recently found out first hand that this is a misconception. It isn't true. And after the experience I had, research was necessary. This is what I found out.
Most of us think our hair is too dense, or too kinky for lice to hang on to, and while that is pretty close to the truth because the oval/elliptical shape of our hair strands, it only makes it a little difficult for lice to get a steady grip. This does not mean they won't set up shop and make plans to stay. We have to protect ourselves through prevention.
Prevention is simple. Lice thrive in a clean, warm and dry environment. The key word here is "dry." Since these tiny creatures breathe through their skin, oils will suffocate them. Lice cannot thrive in an environment where oils are present. Yes, that well known childhood practice of sitting down to have your scalp "greased" was our saving grace. Back in the day, we used Blue Magic and similar petroleum based products, but we are learning now to avoid petrol products because with prolonged use, they can block the pores, causing scalp irritation and dandruff.
There are natural options that will work just as well to prevent lice, with the added benefit of providing nutrients to the scalp. Jojoba and Macadamia Nut oils are excellent for the scalp and are very similar in make-up to our natural sebum. Grapeseed oil is high in vitamin E, economical and very lightweight. Unless your scalp is very dry, it only needs to be lightly oiled once per week. If you are developing dandruff or experiencing chronic dry scalp and hair, it is recommended to set up a consultation with your local Natural Hair Specialist and create a personalized regimen to restore your moisture balance. Dryness can have many causes both internal and external.
Do not wash the hair too often. It takes about 72 hours for the scalp to adjust after a shampoo cleansing and begin to produce natural sebum again. In general, the tighter the coils, the longer it will take the scalp to produce enough oils to cause any form of build up. Under normal circumstances, once per week is often enough to wash the hair.
Treatment of lice in Black hair can be a difficult and tedious task, so in this case, an ounce of prevention truly is worth a pound of cure. Check your child's scalp regularly to avoid any issues, an infestation can take hold quickly in the right environment.
Lice are most commonly found on children from preschool age to around 12 years of age. Without extreme caution however, they will easily spread to other members of the household. There is also a new breed that has appeared in several states across the nation that is known as Super Lice. This breed earned its name from its evolved resistance to current market lice treatments, also known as pediculicides, pesticides and insecticides. Super Lice cannot survive natural treatments, so a combination of the various methods may be appropriate to ensure that treatment doesn't become a prolonged repeating process.
Lice are tiny light to dark brown bugs, and their eggs can be mistaken for fine dandruff or follicle bulbs. The eggs are attached near the root of the hair, but are not easily removed. Should you find lice in your child's hair, notify your child's school through the teacher or principal. They will inform you of the school district's attendance policy, since lice spread easily, and also notify other parents in a discreet manner.
Over the counter and prescription lice treatments are designed to be done on straight hair and must utilize the specialized lice and nit (egg) comb to be effective.
The natural option is to use a combination of heavy grease (yes, this is where you break out the Blue Magic) and heat. 125°F is necessary to kill lice on contact. An electric pressing comb with a max temperature of about 325°F will definitely do the trick without damaging the hair. Part the hair into small sections and grease the hair, taking care NOT to get oil on the scalp. Once done with the entire head, part into 0.5-1 inch sections and press the hair from root to tip. A flat iron can be used near the root to avoid getting too close to the scalp if necessary, but be careful not to pull the hair too tight. Tension + Heat = Damage.
This is a situation where petroleum hair grease is a must have. I must admit, I never thought I would put those words together in a sentence, but in this case, it fits the job description. It's heavy and blocks all moisture. It protects the hair from heat. It's cheap. The process should be done at least twice to ensure that all live bugs and eggs (nits) are killed and removed.
Save the conditioner. Creamy conditioners are not enough because they are water-based, and cannot be left on the hair for a long enough period of time to prevent or get fully rid of lice. They also tend to be more expensive, so to use up all of your best product and not kill every single louse is money down the drain.
While the hair is semi straight, apply the lice treatment, if you are using one. Follow the directions exactly. All bedding and clothing should be laundered on the hottest setting. Vacuum all carpets, chairs and couches. Items that are not washable should be sealed in airtight plastic bags for 1-2 weeks. This gives any eggs time to hatch and suffocate.
Do NOT make an appointment to be seen in a salon, braiding, beauty or barber shop with an active lice infestation. The same goes for other personal services where your hair may come in contact with shared spaces. Servicing clients with lice, ringworm, and other communicable conditions will result in hefty fines and possible loss of professional licenses. After my encounter, I did not service any clients over the next 48 hours and completely cleaned and disinfected my entire workspace 3 times. I disinfected a 4th time before servicing my next client almost 3 days later because overkill is necessary. I threw out all of the tools and towels I used that day. This cost me money and time, but had I not known how to recognize what I was dealing with and know my legal limitations, it could have cost me much more.
But Black people don't get lice...
I believed it. But then I witnessed with my own eyes. We have to protect ourselves through prevention and know how to handle this situation if necessary. With wisdom from the past, we can handle the present and ensure a prosperous future.
©Nov 2017. Reproduction & distribution prohibited without express permission from the author.
Kalae Whitman
Sankofa Natural Hair
Specializing in *Braids*Twists*Locs*Shea Butter
Humbly serving the Tyler/East Texas area
(903) 830-0963 TEXT for appointments & inquiries
www.SankofaHair.com
YT/IG/Twitter: @Sankofa Kalae
"The Truth is in Your Roots..."
...But, I Didn't Sign Up for This!
Top 4 UNEXPECTED Reasons to Join the Natural Hair Movement
original release Jun 2017-
Since 2008 relaxer sales have consistently fallen in the United States. Around the same time, I was told that a salon focused entirely on natural hair could never be successful in east Texas because I'd never be able to convince enough women in the area to forego chemical services. After all, we must be presentable. We've got to be able to hold a job... Inside, I felt the need to create a space where we could be free to accept our hair as it is designed and open the way to learn how to properly care for it. So I kept pushing forward. I wanted to support women stepping out of society's box by providing services that focused on maintaining healthy hair.
Over time I began to hear unexpected and shocking stories while behind the chair and speaking with new clients over the phone. These were horror stories of drastic hair loss and trauma coming from women who never thought they would be "forced" to go natural. They wondered how they would handle it, how they would cover it, what their boyfriends, husbands and mothers would think. They wondered if they would be accepted or abandoned by those who love them.
I'm still hearing stories like these today, though outside acceptance isn't as much of a concern anymore since natural hair is more commonly seen in public places. What hasn't changed is the shock, anger and sadness these women feel at first when, after having no plans to ditch their trusted relaxer in their foreseeable future, they find themselves staring at their reflection with a Teeny Weeny Afro or boy cut.
It has become unfortunately common to hear people say "natural hair isn't for everybody." I used to agree, but after counseling so many women through an unexpected, but necessary transition, my opinions had to change. Natural hair is what we have. It should be normal. There are countless styling options, recipes, products and regimens to fit different lifestyles, skill levels and budgets. I've heard from women who used chemicals for years without incident, then one day, it's over. I've cried with women who feel they have no option but to hide under wigs and pray.
I have learned that refusing chemical services should be considered more a matter of health than fashion or politics. We owe it to ourselves to take a closer look at relaxers and other chemical services, especially since there have been recent studies suggesting links to some serious health problems and hair loss.
Medication interactions, hormonal changes, restricted hair growth from chemical scars and the possible connections between chemical services and female health problems are four of the most common unexpected reasons behind going natural. These experiences change a person's lifestyle, making natural hair a necessary and concrete decision for a growing portion of our demographic. For so many of us, natural hair is about more than being trendy, and awareness is the only way to prevent the trauma of fighting through something you feel isn't "for you" when you were born with it. So, let's break it down.
Medications
Some women are returning to natural hair because of medication interactions. It's important to read the inserts and information that come with prescriptions. Ask your doctor or pharmacist for the info, if it is not provided. Tell your physician and dermatologist if you use any type of chemical straighteners, and how often you use them. If your medications affect hair dryness, growth or could cause shedding, be aware that chemical services on the hair could raise your chances of those risks affecting you.
Hormones
Hormonal changes around menopause can cause hair loss and thinning at the crown of the head. This may still happen if you wear your hair natural, but wearing relaxers, jheri curls and even using jet black permanent color regularly and for an extended period of time raises the risk of follicle damage causing hair to appear thinner than if it's worn in its natural state. From my experience, I've noticed a relationship between how long and how often harsh chemicals are applied and how drastic the hair loss can be. Follicle damage is usually irreversible.
Chemical Burns/Scar Tissue
Chemical burns are common in our community. Unfortunately this means that they are often brushed off as not being a serious issue. In reality, chemical burns can have detrimental effects on the follicles, causing permanent scar tissue, folliculitis, trichorrhexis nodosa (extremely dry, brittle hair), infection and alopecia. This is by far the most common reason people stop using relaxers and texturizers, and while going natural means that those tender places won't be inflamed repeatedly anymore, many people have lasting scars and discomfort for years. In the early 2000's, the term "scab hair" was coined to describe the first new hair growth after the last relaxer, which sometimes means doing the Big Chop 2-3 times. This hair is affected by the relaxer chemicals that absorb into the scalp during touch-ups. It can be dry, wiry, split easily and refuse to hold the hair's natural curl pattern.
Women's Health Problems
Black Women for Wellness released a 60 page report in 2016 that was based on a 5 year study of the effects of chemical services on the health of consumers and beauty industry workers. The results found possible links between chemical services and early puberty, heavier, longer and more painful menstrual cycles, and uterine fibroids. When applied to the scalp, chemicals are absorbed into the blood stream. Because a woman's womb is responsible for detoxification of the heaviest chemicals through its monthly flow, this area can become the most affected by their repeated use. This is the reason physicians recommend we not use relaxers while pregnant.
When I flash back to 2008/09 when I was sharing my dream in that unforgettable conversation, I never considered that health awareness would become the number one contributing factor in the decision to return to natural hair. But in 2017, it is close to becoming just that. We are learning more and doing better. Our concerns and observations are being confirmed by scientific data. Natural hair has become recognized as a part of the bigger decision to live a healthier, holistic life and this recognition means natural hair is here to stay.
©June 2017. Reproduction & distribution prohibited without express permission from the author.
Kalae Whitman
Sankofa Natural Hair
Specializing in *Braids*Twists*Locs*Shea Butter
Humbly serving the Tyler/East Texas area
(903) 830-0963 TEXT for appointments & inquiries
www.SankofaHair.com
YT/IG/Twitter: @Sankofa Kalae
"The Truth is in Your Roots..."
Top 4 UNEXPECTED Reasons to Join the Natural Hair Movement
original release Jun 2017-
Since 2008 relaxer sales have consistently fallen in the United States. Around the same time, I was told that a salon focused entirely on natural hair could never be successful in east Texas because I'd never be able to convince enough women in the area to forego chemical services. After all, we must be presentable. We've got to be able to hold a job... Inside, I felt the need to create a space where we could be free to accept our hair as it is designed and open the way to learn how to properly care for it. So I kept pushing forward. I wanted to support women stepping out of society's box by providing services that focused on maintaining healthy hair.
Over time I began to hear unexpected and shocking stories while behind the chair and speaking with new clients over the phone. These were horror stories of drastic hair loss and trauma coming from women who never thought they would be "forced" to go natural. They wondered how they would handle it, how they would cover it, what their boyfriends, husbands and mothers would think. They wondered if they would be accepted or abandoned by those who love them.
I'm still hearing stories like these today, though outside acceptance isn't as much of a concern anymore since natural hair is more commonly seen in public places. What hasn't changed is the shock, anger and sadness these women feel at first when, after having no plans to ditch their trusted relaxer in their foreseeable future, they find themselves staring at their reflection with a Teeny Weeny Afro or boy cut.
It has become unfortunately common to hear people say "natural hair isn't for everybody." I used to agree, but after counseling so many women through an unexpected, but necessary transition, my opinions had to change. Natural hair is what we have. It should be normal. There are countless styling options, recipes, products and regimens to fit different lifestyles, skill levels and budgets. I've heard from women who used chemicals for years without incident, then one day, it's over. I've cried with women who feel they have no option but to hide under wigs and pray.
I have learned that refusing chemical services should be considered more a matter of health than fashion or politics. We owe it to ourselves to take a closer look at relaxers and other chemical services, especially since there have been recent studies suggesting links to some serious health problems and hair loss.
Medication interactions, hormonal changes, restricted hair growth from chemical scars and the possible connections between chemical services and female health problems are four of the most common unexpected reasons behind going natural. These experiences change a person's lifestyle, making natural hair a necessary and concrete decision for a growing portion of our demographic. For so many of us, natural hair is about more than being trendy, and awareness is the only way to prevent the trauma of fighting through something you feel isn't "for you" when you were born with it. So, let's break it down.
Medications
Some women are returning to natural hair because of medication interactions. It's important to read the inserts and information that come with prescriptions. Ask your doctor or pharmacist for the info, if it is not provided. Tell your physician and dermatologist if you use any type of chemical straighteners, and how often you use them. If your medications affect hair dryness, growth or could cause shedding, be aware that chemical services on the hair could raise your chances of those risks affecting you.
Hormones
Hormonal changes around menopause can cause hair loss and thinning at the crown of the head. This may still happen if you wear your hair natural, but wearing relaxers, jheri curls and even using jet black permanent color regularly and for an extended period of time raises the risk of follicle damage causing hair to appear thinner than if it's worn in its natural state. From my experience, I've noticed a relationship between how long and how often harsh chemicals are applied and how drastic the hair loss can be. Follicle damage is usually irreversible.
Chemical Burns/Scar Tissue
Chemical burns are common in our community. Unfortunately this means that they are often brushed off as not being a serious issue. In reality, chemical burns can have detrimental effects on the follicles, causing permanent scar tissue, folliculitis, trichorrhexis nodosa (extremely dry, brittle hair), infection and alopecia. This is by far the most common reason people stop using relaxers and texturizers, and while going natural means that those tender places won't be inflamed repeatedly anymore, many people have lasting scars and discomfort for years. In the early 2000's, the term "scab hair" was coined to describe the first new hair growth after the last relaxer, which sometimes means doing the Big Chop 2-3 times. This hair is affected by the relaxer chemicals that absorb into the scalp during touch-ups. It can be dry, wiry, split easily and refuse to hold the hair's natural curl pattern.
Women's Health Problems
Black Women for Wellness released a 60 page report in 2016 that was based on a 5 year study of the effects of chemical services on the health of consumers and beauty industry workers. The results found possible links between chemical services and early puberty, heavier, longer and more painful menstrual cycles, and uterine fibroids. When applied to the scalp, chemicals are absorbed into the blood stream. Because a woman's womb is responsible for detoxification of the heaviest chemicals through its monthly flow, this area can become the most affected by their repeated use. This is the reason physicians recommend we not use relaxers while pregnant.
When I flash back to 2008/09 when I was sharing my dream in that unforgettable conversation, I never considered that health awareness would become the number one contributing factor in the decision to return to natural hair. But in 2017, it is close to becoming just that. We are learning more and doing better. Our concerns and observations are being confirmed by scientific data. Natural hair has become recognized as a part of the bigger decision to live a healthier, holistic life and this recognition means natural hair is here to stay.
©June 2017. Reproduction & distribution prohibited without express permission from the author.
Kalae Whitman
Sankofa Natural Hair
Specializing in *Braids*Twists*Locs*Shea Butter
Humbly serving the Tyler/East Texas area
(903) 830-0963 TEXT for appointments & inquiries
www.SankofaHair.com
YT/IG/Twitter: @Sankofa Kalae
"The Truth is in Your Roots..."
Saving Your Edges, Part I:
The 4 Contributing Factors to Traction Alopecia
original release Oct 2016-
Researchers at Johns Hopkins recently reviewed 19 studies in the development of traction alopecia and issued a statement urging African American women to be aware of and to avoid excessive "scalp-pulling" hairstyles along with the use of texture altering chemical treatments. Traction Alopecia is a type of gradual hair loss which is caused by damage to the hair follicle from prolonged or repeated tension on the hair root.
The statement classifies styles as low, moderate and high risk. Low risk styles included in the recommendations were loose styles and loose buns. While these are low risk for hair loss from the scalp, they can lead to breakage if certain hair textures are not protected from friction. Loose pin-ups, flat twists and individual twists may also be considered low risk. Twists are less stressful on the hair because they follow the direction of the natural curl pattern, allowing the hair to stretch and shrink in response to humidity.
While there are actually four contributing factors to the development of traction alopecia: chemicals, heat, tension and weight, this week's focus is on breaking down the roles that chemicals and heat play in moderate and high risk styling. Part II will take an in depth look at tension and weight from braids and extensions, along with the treatment and prevention of traction alopecia.
So let's get to it.
Chemical treatments are those that permanently alter the structure and make up of the hair. This includes relaxers, texturizers, curl and blow-out kits and, to a lesser degree, coloring agents. Combining chemical treatments with moderately risky styles ultimately puts one at the greatest risk of developing traction alopecia. In other words, braids and weaves should NOT be installed on freshly relaxed hair. It is recommended to wait a minimum of 4 to 6 weeks after a chemical service for a Protective Style of any kind. This gives the scalp, hair follicles, and hair time to recover.
Pulling the hair into a style too soon can literally pop the follicle bulbs out of the scalp. Ever notice those small white dots at your roots and itchy, swollen bumps around your hairline when your hair is styled? While seeing a few (without bumps) is normal and indicative of natural shedding, seeing many of these tiny bulbs ,and noticeable thinning, is a sign of follicular stress. Dr. Crystal Aguh, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology at the Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine, and co-author of the statement, elaborates on the risky practice of combining chemicals with tension, "Chemical straightening weakens the hair shaft, causing breakage. Permanent waves made with ammonium thioglycolate to create or later curl pattern together with added tension from chemical treatment do the same."
The statement also warns against using wig adhesives and bonding glue, noting that these products can cause significant breakage if used improperly. One wrong application can result in an unexpected cut or even bald patches in the process of removal and though entirely preventable, this damage is not always reversible.
...And what's the big issue with heat?
Well, heat poses a moderate risk on its own, but becomes high risk when combined with chemicals or tension and weight. Blow drying on high heat and flat ironing prior to braiding or weaving hair removes moisture. So, basically, heat isn't all bad; we have to be smart about how we use it. If the hair is not properly protected when using heat, or if heat is used too often, the hair becomes brittle and prone to breakage as it loses elasticity. Grapeseed oil is an excellent natural oil for heat protection that will also keep hair soft and provide sheen.
Dr. Aguh concluded that, "untreated and unprocessed hair can withstand greater traction, pulling and brushing, and overall decreases the risk of traction alopecia, regardless of styling."
Part II of Saving Your Edges: The 4 Contributing Factors to Traction Alopecia continues next week with a breakdown of tension and weight, along with the treatment and prevention of this particular form of alopecia, estimated to affect 1 in 3 Black women in the U.S.
Sources:
http://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/news/media/releases/all_hairstyles_are_not_created_equal
http://www.clutchmagonline.com/2016/04/johns-hopkins-urges-women-stop-getting-braids-weaves/
http://blackyouthproject.com/in-new-johns-hopkins-study-black-womens-hair-cant-win-for-losing/
http://thegrio.com/2016/04/29/researchers-black-women-weaves-braids-extensions-johns-hopkins/
©Oct 2016. Reproduction & redistribution without express permission from the author.
💓-Kalae
Sankofa Natural Hair
Specializing in *Braids*Twists*Locs*Shea Butter
Humbly serving the Tyler/East Texas area
(903) 830-0963 TEXT for appointments & inquiries
www.SankofaHair.com
YT/IG/Twitter: @Sankofa Kalae
"The Truth is in Your Roots..."
The 4 Contributing Factors to Traction Alopecia
original release Oct 2016-
Researchers at Johns Hopkins recently reviewed 19 studies in the development of traction alopecia and issued a statement urging African American women to be aware of and to avoid excessive "scalp-pulling" hairstyles along with the use of texture altering chemical treatments. Traction Alopecia is a type of gradual hair loss which is caused by damage to the hair follicle from prolonged or repeated tension on the hair root.
The statement classifies styles as low, moderate and high risk. Low risk styles included in the recommendations were loose styles and loose buns. While these are low risk for hair loss from the scalp, they can lead to breakage if certain hair textures are not protected from friction. Loose pin-ups, flat twists and individual twists may also be considered low risk. Twists are less stressful on the hair because they follow the direction of the natural curl pattern, allowing the hair to stretch and shrink in response to humidity.
While there are actually four contributing factors to the development of traction alopecia: chemicals, heat, tension and weight, this week's focus is on breaking down the roles that chemicals and heat play in moderate and high risk styling. Part II will take an in depth look at tension and weight from braids and extensions, along with the treatment and prevention of traction alopecia.
So let's get to it.
Chemical treatments are those that permanently alter the structure and make up of the hair. This includes relaxers, texturizers, curl and blow-out kits and, to a lesser degree, coloring agents. Combining chemical treatments with moderately risky styles ultimately puts one at the greatest risk of developing traction alopecia. In other words, braids and weaves should NOT be installed on freshly relaxed hair. It is recommended to wait a minimum of 4 to 6 weeks after a chemical service for a Protective Style of any kind. This gives the scalp, hair follicles, and hair time to recover.
Pulling the hair into a style too soon can literally pop the follicle bulbs out of the scalp. Ever notice those small white dots at your roots and itchy, swollen bumps around your hairline when your hair is styled? While seeing a few (without bumps) is normal and indicative of natural shedding, seeing many of these tiny bulbs ,and noticeable thinning, is a sign of follicular stress. Dr. Crystal Aguh, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology at the Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine, and co-author of the statement, elaborates on the risky practice of combining chemicals with tension, "Chemical straightening weakens the hair shaft, causing breakage. Permanent waves made with ammonium thioglycolate to create or later curl pattern together with added tension from chemical treatment do the same."
The statement also warns against using wig adhesives and bonding glue, noting that these products can cause significant breakage if used improperly. One wrong application can result in an unexpected cut or even bald patches in the process of removal and though entirely preventable, this damage is not always reversible.
...And what's the big issue with heat?
Well, heat poses a moderate risk on its own, but becomes high risk when combined with chemicals or tension and weight. Blow drying on high heat and flat ironing prior to braiding or weaving hair removes moisture. So, basically, heat isn't all bad; we have to be smart about how we use it. If the hair is not properly protected when using heat, or if heat is used too often, the hair becomes brittle and prone to breakage as it loses elasticity. Grapeseed oil is an excellent natural oil for heat protection that will also keep hair soft and provide sheen.
Dr. Aguh concluded that, "untreated and unprocessed hair can withstand greater traction, pulling and brushing, and overall decreases the risk of traction alopecia, regardless of styling."
Part II of Saving Your Edges: The 4 Contributing Factors to Traction Alopecia continues next week with a breakdown of tension and weight, along with the treatment and prevention of this particular form of alopecia, estimated to affect 1 in 3 Black women in the U.S.
Sources:
http://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/news/media/releases/all_hairstyles_are_not_created_equal
http://www.clutchmagonline.com/2016/04/johns-hopkins-urges-women-stop-getting-braids-weaves/
http://blackyouthproject.com/in-new-johns-hopkins-study-black-womens-hair-cant-win-for-losing/
http://thegrio.com/2016/04/29/researchers-black-women-weaves-braids-extensions-johns-hopkins/
©Oct 2016. Reproduction & redistribution without express permission from the author.
💓-Kalae
Sankofa Natural Hair
Specializing in *Braids*Twists*Locs*Shea Butter
Humbly serving the Tyler/East Texas area
(903) 830-0963 TEXT for appointments & inquiries
www.SankofaHair.com
YT/IG/Twitter: @Sankofa Kalae
"The Truth is in Your Roots..."
Saving Your Edges, Part II:
The 4 Contributing Factors to Traction Alopecia
original release Oct 2016-
Researchers at Johns Hopkins recently reviewed 19 studies in the development of traction alopecia and issued a statement urging African American women to be aware of and to avoid excessive “scalp-pulling” hairstyles along with the use of texture altering chemical treatments. Traction alopecia is a type of gradual hair loss caused by damage to the hair follicle from prolonged or repeated tension on the hair root.
For background information pertaining to this week’s article see Saving your Edges Part I. This week’s installment focuses on traction alopecia factors #3 and #4: Weight and Tension. Tension becomes a contributing factor to alopecia when protective styling is used. When protective styling is done with extensions, the factor of weight enters the scenario.
With the recent growth and evolution of the natural hair movement, a new term has emerged: “protective styles.” Though the term’s use is fairly recent, it’s just a modern name for traditional longer term styling options that help make Black hair more manageable and, ideally, minimize damage. Protective styles include twists, braids, cornrows, flat twists, sew-in weaves, buns and pinups. Locs are a long term lifestyle commitment to care for the hair in a holistic and minimalistic manner that naturally protects the hair. This commitment is given in terms of years, so it is not truly fitting to call them a style. In other words, Locs can be styled, but are not a style themselves.
Now, to put it simply, two basic factors are necessary for long hair. Growth is only one of them, and is controlled primarily by internal conditions. Maintenance is the other, and this means to minimize breakage and damage of the oldest, most vulnerable hair at the ends and along the hair shaft. That’s where protective styling comes in.
Protective styling aids growth by stimulating the hair follicle nerves. It enhances maintenance by literally protecting the strands and ends of hair from exposure to the elements (sun, wind, moisture), and over manipulation (excessive combing, brushing, dry heat usage, etc). Protective styling can be done with or without extensions. The purposes for using extensions are many and have a longstanding history of thousands of years. Extensions can add thickness, length, color, and varying texture to a style. Most commonly, however, extensions are used to extend the length of time a style can be worn. Because adding extensions slows the locking process, they can potentially double the length of time a style lasts. In the hands of a skilled natural stylist, protective styling can do wonders to reverse alopecia and prevent it, especially when accompanied by a moisture regimen and internal support.
So why the alarm and warnings against braids and weaves?
Weight and tension. There is a concerning trend of using extensions that are too heavy and braiding the hair entirely too tight. We commonly share experiences of headaches and not being able to sleep after having our hair done. We sit for hours, only to be forced to take it all down. Needing to take medications for pain from hair services is often the first sign that traction alopecia is on its way. Seeing lots of tiny white bulbs (hair follicles), swelling, and lasting redness around the hairline is also a huge indicator. Chemicals and heat don’t help the situation, but whether you’re “natural” or “relaxed,” heavy extensions that are too tight will literally tear your hair out. These symptoms must be taken seriously because over time scar tissue develops and the damage becomes permanent.
Even with extensions, the thickness of hair should appear natural. It should be relative to the amount of hair the client actually has, not based on how big, thick or long they want it to be. Longer, thicker natural hair can support thicker, longer looks, and if that is the client’s desire, the stylist has a professional responsibility to help them reach goals for their own natural hair first, by using extensions that are appropriate for maintaining it. The stylist should also be capable of displacing tension away from the client’s scalp. It is possible to braid securely without pulling so tight that the client becomes uncomfortable. On the contrary, hair braiding should be a relaxing, soothing experience similar to getting a massage. If it hurts, let the stylist know. That way, they can practice more or learn new techniques to create a more comfortable environment for you, the client.
By definition, protective styles such as braids and weaves guard the hair from breakage and damage. But, ultimately, when it comes to wearing braids, weaves and other potentially risky styles, consumers must also protect themselves through knowledge and prevention. Know the 4 risk factors: Chemicals, Heat, Weight, and Tension. Don’t sit in the chair and become a victim, whether that chair is in a salon or kitchen. Save your edges. Listen to them. Pay attention to any red flags. The doctors responsible for the statement from Johns Hopkins are Black women and after reading the original release myself and looking into the background it became apparent that it was not their intention to tell us to stop wearing our traditional and trendy styles. They want us to be careful. We can be cute and look professional without sacrificing the health of our hair. Prevention is key.
Sources:
http://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/news/media/releases/all_hairstyles_are_not_created_equal
http://www.clutchmagonline.com/2016/04/johns-hopkins-urges-women-stop-getting-braids-weaves/
http://blackyouthproject.com/in-new-johns-hopkins-study-black-womens-hair-cant-win-for-losing/
http://thegrio.com/2016/04/29/researchers-black-women-weaves-braids-extensions-johns-hopkins/
©Oct 2016. Reproduction & redistribution without express permission from the author.
💓-Kalae
Sankofa Natural Hair
Specializing in *Braids*Twists*Locs*Shea Butter
Humbly serving the Tyler/East Texas area
(903) 830-0963 TEXT for appointments & inquiries
www.SankofaHair.com
YT/IG/Twitter: @Sankofa Kalae
"The Truth is in Your Roots..."
The 4 Contributing Factors to Traction Alopecia
original release Oct 2016-
Researchers at Johns Hopkins recently reviewed 19 studies in the development of traction alopecia and issued a statement urging African American women to be aware of and to avoid excessive “scalp-pulling” hairstyles along with the use of texture altering chemical treatments. Traction alopecia is a type of gradual hair loss caused by damage to the hair follicle from prolonged or repeated tension on the hair root.
For background information pertaining to this week’s article see Saving your Edges Part I. This week’s installment focuses on traction alopecia factors #3 and #4: Weight and Tension. Tension becomes a contributing factor to alopecia when protective styling is used. When protective styling is done with extensions, the factor of weight enters the scenario.
With the recent growth and evolution of the natural hair movement, a new term has emerged: “protective styles.” Though the term’s use is fairly recent, it’s just a modern name for traditional longer term styling options that help make Black hair more manageable and, ideally, minimize damage. Protective styles include twists, braids, cornrows, flat twists, sew-in weaves, buns and pinups. Locs are a long term lifestyle commitment to care for the hair in a holistic and minimalistic manner that naturally protects the hair. This commitment is given in terms of years, so it is not truly fitting to call them a style. In other words, Locs can be styled, but are not a style themselves.
Now, to put it simply, two basic factors are necessary for long hair. Growth is only one of them, and is controlled primarily by internal conditions. Maintenance is the other, and this means to minimize breakage and damage of the oldest, most vulnerable hair at the ends and along the hair shaft. That’s where protective styling comes in.
Protective styling aids growth by stimulating the hair follicle nerves. It enhances maintenance by literally protecting the strands and ends of hair from exposure to the elements (sun, wind, moisture), and over manipulation (excessive combing, brushing, dry heat usage, etc). Protective styling can be done with or without extensions. The purposes for using extensions are many and have a longstanding history of thousands of years. Extensions can add thickness, length, color, and varying texture to a style. Most commonly, however, extensions are used to extend the length of time a style can be worn. Because adding extensions slows the locking process, they can potentially double the length of time a style lasts. In the hands of a skilled natural stylist, protective styling can do wonders to reverse alopecia and prevent it, especially when accompanied by a moisture regimen and internal support.
So why the alarm and warnings against braids and weaves?
Weight and tension. There is a concerning trend of using extensions that are too heavy and braiding the hair entirely too tight. We commonly share experiences of headaches and not being able to sleep after having our hair done. We sit for hours, only to be forced to take it all down. Needing to take medications for pain from hair services is often the first sign that traction alopecia is on its way. Seeing lots of tiny white bulbs (hair follicles), swelling, and lasting redness around the hairline is also a huge indicator. Chemicals and heat don’t help the situation, but whether you’re “natural” or “relaxed,” heavy extensions that are too tight will literally tear your hair out. These symptoms must be taken seriously because over time scar tissue develops and the damage becomes permanent.
Even with extensions, the thickness of hair should appear natural. It should be relative to the amount of hair the client actually has, not based on how big, thick or long they want it to be. Longer, thicker natural hair can support thicker, longer looks, and if that is the client’s desire, the stylist has a professional responsibility to help them reach goals for their own natural hair first, by using extensions that are appropriate for maintaining it. The stylist should also be capable of displacing tension away from the client’s scalp. It is possible to braid securely without pulling so tight that the client becomes uncomfortable. On the contrary, hair braiding should be a relaxing, soothing experience similar to getting a massage. If it hurts, let the stylist know. That way, they can practice more or learn new techniques to create a more comfortable environment for you, the client.
By definition, protective styles such as braids and weaves guard the hair from breakage and damage. But, ultimately, when it comes to wearing braids, weaves and other potentially risky styles, consumers must also protect themselves through knowledge and prevention. Know the 4 risk factors: Chemicals, Heat, Weight, and Tension. Don’t sit in the chair and become a victim, whether that chair is in a salon or kitchen. Save your edges. Listen to them. Pay attention to any red flags. The doctors responsible for the statement from Johns Hopkins are Black women and after reading the original release myself and looking into the background it became apparent that it was not their intention to tell us to stop wearing our traditional and trendy styles. They want us to be careful. We can be cute and look professional without sacrificing the health of our hair. Prevention is key.
Sources:
http://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/news/media/releases/all_hairstyles_are_not_created_equal
http://www.clutchmagonline.com/2016/04/johns-hopkins-urges-women-stop-getting-braids-weaves/
http://blackyouthproject.com/in-new-johns-hopkins-study-black-womens-hair-cant-win-for-losing/
http://thegrio.com/2016/04/29/researchers-black-women-weaves-braids-extensions-johns-hopkins/
©Oct 2016. Reproduction & redistribution without express permission from the author.
💓-Kalae
Sankofa Natural Hair
Specializing in *Braids*Twists*Locs*Shea Butter
Humbly serving the Tyler/East Texas area
(903) 830-0963 TEXT for appointments & inquiries
www.SankofaHair.com
YT/IG/Twitter: @Sankofa Kalae
"The Truth is in Your Roots..."
